Grape-growing history mixes with technology for an organic wine blend
Posted by Susan Ponsolle on 05-14-07
MENDOCINO, Calif. - Winegrapes have been grown "organically" for
thousands of years. At least that's the philosophy that has driven Frey
family members since they started their winery in Mendocino County's
Redwood Valley American Viticultural Area.
"We take the best of ancient history, an 8,000-year-old success story, and incorporate it with the best of modern winemaking and modern technology," said Paul Frey Jr.
Paul and Beba Frey started their winery in 1980 using only organically grown grapes with no added sulfites. More than 25 years later, they are the largest purely organic winery in the United States, with all grapes grown in accordance with California Certified Organic Farmers.
Frey says they learned to make wine from "traditional Italian farmers in this area who were all organic but had never heard of the word. When we started the winery, it was logical to do it organically since the grapes were already being grown organically by them."
They are now producing 60,000 to 70,000 cases a year; compared to the 500 cases they did that first year.
"We sell to every state and major wholesaler in the country, and sell a little in Europe, Taiwan and Japan," said Frey.
Their organic winegrapes are grown on about 100 acres throughout the Mendocino County area, an ideal winegrowing region with its cool nights and warm days.
"We buy from about 12 other certified organic growers, basically Mom- and Pop-type farmers who have been in it for 15 or 20 years," said Frey.
As for making wine without sulfite, Frey said they followed the same farming tradition in that way too.
"Many local farmers were making wine with no sulfites, doing Italian winemaking and we were studying what they were doing."
He said it was possible to do it because they were a small operation.
"When we started out in the early '80s, we were small enough if you were going to become sulfite-free, you could do it. And, if you're family-owned, you can do it. You couldn't do that with a corporation."
The Freys have a strong family tradition as well. The winery remains a family-owned business with 10 of the Freys' 12 children in it full time and the rest filling in when needed, particularly during harvest time.
The Freys believe the organic market will only continue to grow.
"We've seen steady growth the last few years, it's been about 20 percent. I think it's because the baby boomers want a choice, this wine, that wine, organic, no sulfites added, etc.," Frey said.
He also pointed to the fact that most major food brands are adding organic products. "There's now even organic ketchup, and anybody doing any kind of food processing has to at least have a line that's organic to appeal to your customers."
Frey said their most popular wine is their natural red.
"We sell the most of that because it's a fair price at $6 to $7 a bottle, and has a good flavor. We also do well with our basic red Cabernet, Zinfandel, Petite syrah and Chardonnay."
Because the Freys wanted to take organic further, they became the first
winery in the United States to produce biodynamic wines. Grapes grown
for their biodynamic wines are grown in accordance with the biodynamic
certification agency, the Demeter Association.
"We felt it was a natural extension, since some people see organic getting watered down. We wanted to go beyond organic by using the natural ecosystem that exists there," said Frey.
Frey said they face the same challenges as other farmers "We face the weather, the market, all of that." But, he believes that the future looks bright.
"We now have a lot of natural control. "Every year we see more and more natural ways and each year we have more and more methods."
And he says they will continue to strive to satisfy their customers. "We'll continue to keep researching and keep making the best organic wine in the world."
Source: Judith Gerber, freelance writer
From the Capital Press
November, 2006
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Reply #1 on : Mon May 14, 2007, 17:55:18